Matera
The City Reborn from Stone and Time
Ever found a place that makes you question everything you thought you knew about history and human resilience? That place is Matera.
It is not just a city; it is an open history book, sculpted into the rock, telling a saga of nearly ten thousand years. It is a city that went from being the “shame of Italy” to a global source of pride, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I want to take you on a tour of Matera as if we were walking together through its Sassi (the famous caves), smelling the fresh bread, and hearing the echoes of a past that refuses to be forgotten. It is a city that touches your soul, teaching you about the strength of community and the beauty of transformation.
In this guide, we will dive into Matera's history, understand the importance of its underground neighborhoods, discover the best time to visit, and, of course, talk about its gastronomy, where bread is the ultimate symbol. Get ready for a journey through time that will move you.
To plan your visit, check monument schedules and cultural events, consult the official tourism portal of the Comune di Matera.
The History of Matera: From Cave to World Heritage
The history of Matera is one of the longest and most fascinating in human history. It is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with settlements dating back to the Paleolithic era. The city developed around the Sassi (meaning “stones”), the ancient neighborhoods formed by houses and churches carved into limestone rock.
The Sassi: Underground Houses and Community Life
The Sassi are divided into two main districts: Sasso Barisano (facing north, richer in sculpted portals and friezes) and Sasso Caveoso (facing south, with a more cave-like appearance). For millennia, life in these neighborhoods was marked by a strong sense of community, where families lived in harmony with the environment, taking advantage of the constant temperature inside the caves.
The Decline: The “Shame of Italy”
Unfortunately, by the 20th century, life in the Sassi had become unhealthy. Lack of basic sanitation, overcrowding, and poor hygienic conditions turned Matera into a focal point of disease and poverty. Writer Carlo Levi, in his book “Christ Stopped at Eboli”, exposed the situation, and Matera was labeled Italy's “national shame”.
In 1952, the Italian government intervened, relocating about 15,000 residents from the Sassi into new modern neighborhoods. The Sassi were left abandoned, a ghost town of stone.
Rediscovery and UNESCO
What seemed like the end was actually the beginning of a new story. Starting in the 1980s, a movement of intellectuals and former residents began fighting to revalue the Sassi. In 1993, UNESCO recognized the Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches of Matera as a World Heritage Site, calling them “the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region.”
This recognition was a turning point. The Sassi were restored, transformed into boutique hotels, restaurants, and museums, and Matera became a world-renowned tourist destination, culminating in its title as European Capital of Culture in 2019. It is a story of resilience and how preserving memory can drive renewal.
The Best Time to Explore the Caves of Matera
Matera, located in southern Italy in the Basilicata region, features a Mediterranean climate with hot summers and cool winters. Choosing the right time to visit is crucial to making the most of your Sassi experience.
Spring (April to June): The Awakening of the City
Spring is undoubtedly one of the best times to visit. The weather is mild and pleasant, perfect for long walks through the alleys and staircases of the Sassi. The city blooms, and sunlight enhances the golden color of the stone. It is the ideal season for those wanting to escape intense summer heat and crowds.
Summer (July and August): Intense Heat
Summer in Matera is very hot and dry. Temperatures can easily exceed 35°C (95°F). If you visit during this time, prepare for the heat and crowds. The advantage is that days are long, and the illuminated city at night is a spectacle.
Autumn (September and October): The Perfect Weather
Autumn is my favorite time. The weather is mild, temperatures are comfortable, and tourist traffic drops. It is the perfect moment to calmly explore the Sassi, hike in the Murgia Materana Park, and enjoy local gastronomy.
Winter (November to March): Intimate Charm
Winter is cold, but the city becomes emptier and quieter. It is the ideal season for those seeking a more introspective experience to feel the millennial atmosphere of the Sassi without tourist hustle. If you go near Christmas, the city transforms into a living nativity scene, with performances celebrating its history.
My Personal Tip: If you can choose, go in May, June, September, or October. You will have the best weather and tranquility to get lost in the Sassi.
Matera: An Unmissable Destination and Its Stone Treasures
Matera is a destination that transforms you. It is a place where history is palpable, and beauty is raw and authentic. If you seek travel beyond the ordinary, Matera is your place.
Treasures You Cannot Miss
- The Sassi (Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso): The main attraction. Sasso Barisano is the most restored and commercial area, featuring hotels and restaurants. Sasso Caveoso is older and preserves the original cave atmosphere. The best thing to do is lose yourself in the alleys, climb stairs, and observe the unique architecture.
- Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario: A typical cave-house turned museum, showing what family life was like in the Sassi before the exodus. An essential visit to understand Matera's history.
- Matera Cathedral (Duomo): Located at the highest point of the city, the Cathedral is a fine example of Apulian-Romanesque architecture. From there, you get a spectacular view of the Sassi.
- Palombaro Lungo: A gigantic underground water cistern built to store water. It is an impressive engineering feat showcasing the ingenuity of Matera's ancient inhabitants.
- Murgia Materana Park: Across the ravine, the park offers Matera's most iconic view. It is where you capture the most spectacular photos, especially at sunset when the city lights turn on. The park also hosts over 150 rupestrian churches featuring Byzantine frescoes.
- The Oldest Bakery (Antico Forno Santa Caterina): Although the oldest operating bakery (since 1391) is in the neighboring town of Altamura, bread tradition is exceptionally strong in Matera. Pane di Matera IGP is famous across Italy. In Matera, you can visit traditional bakeries keeping the tradition alive.
Golden Tip: For the best experience in the Sassi, hire a local guide. They are former residents or descendants, and their stories bring the stones to life.
Matera Gastronomy: The Taste of Earth and Bread
Matera's culinary art is the expression of Basilicata cuisine: simple, rustic, based on humble yet flavorful ingredients like vegetables, grains, and lamb. It's a gastronomy connecting you to the land and the subsistence history of the Sassi.
Dishes That Will Win Your Palate
- Pane di Matera IGP: Bread is the king of the table. Matera bread has a peculiar shape, a soft crumb, and a crunchy crust. Made with durum wheat semolina, it is famous for lasting days without hardening, serving as the base for many local dishes.
- Orecchiette alla Materana: Southern Italy's most famous pasta, shaped like "little ears", served with tomato sauce, lamb or pork, and salted ricotta cheese.
- Peperoni Cruschi: Sweet peppers, dried and quickly fried in olive oil. They turn crunchy (hence the name cruschi) and are used to season pasta, meats, or eaten simply as a snack. A unique and addictive flavor.
- Crapiata: A traditional Matera soup made with vegetables, grains, and legumes (chickpeas, lentils, beans). It's a dish celebrating harvest and community unity.
- Pignata: A lamb or mutton stew slowly cooked in a clay pot (pignata) with potatoes and vegetables. A comforting, intense flavor dish.
Friend's Tip: Don't miss trying Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata's red wine. It's a full-bodied wine with noticeable tannins that perfectly pairs with meat dishes and the region's rustic flavors.
Where to Eat in Matera: Tasting History
Matera offers a unique culinary experience with many restaurants housed in ancient caves. Eating in a sasso is an immersion into the city's history.
Block 1: Budget-Friendly and Authentic Finds
For those seeking local cuisine at fair prices, trattorias and pizzerias are the best choice.
- Il Rusticone: Famous for pizzas and focaccias made with authentic Matera bread. A simple spot with delicious food at affordable prices.
Where to Eat in Montalcino: From Cozy to Haute Cuisine
Montalcino, despite its size, offers a surprising variety of places to eat, all with a cozy Tuscan touch. Most restaurants have strong wine connections, and you will always find an excellent Brunello list.
Cozy and Budget-Friendly Finds: For authentic Tuscan cuisine at fair prices, trattorias and osterias are the best choice.
- Il Gallo Stuzzicheria: A small, charming place, perfect for a quick lunch or snack. They serve sandwiches, cold cuts and cheese boards, and simple yet delicious dishes, known for great value.
- Tipicamente Matera: A small shop selling local products, serving sandwiches and cold cuts/cheese boards. Perfect for a quick, flavorful lunch.
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Osteria MateraMì: A traditional osteria with a welcoming ambiance and typical Basilicata dishes. A great spot to try crapiata and orecchiette.
Check traveler ratings and reviews via the TripAdvisor Restaurants in Matera hub.
Block 2: Refined and Special Occasion Spots
For a more sophisticated experience, Matera features restaurants uniting tradition with haute cuisine touches.
- Vitantonio Lombardo Ristorante: A Michelin-starred restaurant offering creative, modern cuisine rooted in Basilicata tradition. A high-level culinary experience.
- Baccanti: Set inside a spectacular cave, this restaurant offers an elegant atmosphere and a menu celebrating regional flavors. Ideal for a romantic dinner.
- Regia Corte - Eccellenza Del Territorio: Offering incredible views of the Sassi, this restaurant features a refined menu and an excellent wine list.
Friend's Tip: Don't miss visiting Antico Forno Santa Caterina in Altamura, the neighboring town. It is Italy's oldest operating bakery (since 1391), and its bread is considered the country's best. A worthwhile day trip for bread lovers. Look for extra inspiration in the complete TripAdvisor Guide to Matera Restaurants.
Charming Refuges: Where to Sleep and Dream in the Sassi
Sleeping inside a fully remodeled historic cave in Matera is one of the world's most exclusive accommodation experiences.
Area 1: Sasso Barisano (The Restored Heart)
Advantage: Easier access, excellent tourist infrastructure, and sophisticated boutique hotels integrated into the rocks.
- Cave-Style Boutique Hotels: Perfect choices featuring elegant design, stone-carved bathtubs, and pure romance scenic lighting. Check the complete catalog and rates at Hotels in Matera on Booking.com.
Area 2: Sasso Caveoso (The Primitive Atmosphere)
Advantage: Ideal for those seeking maximum historical authenticity and dramatic ravine views.
- Alberghi Diffusi: Historic rooms scattered across ancient alleys making you feel part of the local community. Secure your early reservation at Hotels in Matera on Booking.com.
How to Get to Matera: The Gateway to the South
Matera is located in the Basilicata region of southern Italy, with the nearest airport being Bari (BRI) in neighboring Puglia, about 65 km away.
Coming from Brazil / Abroad
The first step is flying to a major European airport (like Rome, Milan, Lisbon, or Paris) and catching a connecting flight to Bari.
- Prices: Airfares (round-trip with connection) vary, but you can find offers starting around R$ 3,500.00, depending on season and booking window.
From Bari Airport (BRI) to Matera
This is the most common and efficient route.
- Direct Bus: Several bus companies (like Pugliairbus, Cotrap, and FlixBus) run direct routes from Bari Airport to Matera. The trip takes about 1h15 to 1h30.
- Price: Tickets cost from 3 to 10 euros.
- Train + Bus (More complex option): You can take the train from Bari airport to Bari central station, then catch a Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL) train to Matera. The journey is longer and requires a transfer.
- Rental Car: Renting a car is a great option to explore Basilicata and Puglia. Driving from Bari airport to Matera takes about 1 hour.
My Friend's Tip: The direct bus from Bari Airport is the most practical and economical option. If you plan to explore the region, renting a car is the best choice.
How to Get to the Center of Matera from the Nearest Airport
Getting to the heart of Matera is a quick and easy transition, since the closest airport is Bari (BRI) in neighboring Puglia, about 65 km away.
The Most Common Route (Direct Bus)
The most efficient and budget-friendly way from Bari Airport to central Matera is the direct bus.
- Companies: Various companies like Pugliairbus, Cotrap, and FlixBus offer the service.
- Duration: The ride takes about 1h15 to 1h30.
- Price: Tickets cost starting from 3 to 10 euros.
My Friend's Tip: Upon landing in Bari, look for the bus stop serving Matera routes. It's the most direct way to start your Sassi adventure.
Getting Around Matera: Exploring the Sassi
Matera is a city built to be explored on foot. The Sassi are a labyrinth of alleys, staircases, and underground passages, and the only way to truly absorb their atmosphere is by walking.
On Foot: The Essence of the Experience
Walking is the best way to get around the Sassi. Be prepared to climb up and down many stairs.
- Tip: Wear comfortable, non-slip shoes, as the stones can be slippery.
Urban Bus
Matera has an urban bus service connecting the new part of the city to the Sassi. It is useful for those staying in the modern section wanting to avoid the walk down to the historic center.
- Price: Tickets cost around 1 to 2 euros.
Taxi
Taxis are mostly used for transfers and by those with mobility difficulties.
- Price: Fares within the city are not too expensive, but prices should be agreed upon with the driver beforehand.
My Friend's Tip: Leave your car in the new part of the city and explore the Sassi on foot. Matera's beauty lies in the details only walking reveals.
1-Day Itinerary: The Heart of the Sassi
A perfect itinerary to capture Matera's essential magic and history if you only have one day available:
Scenic Morning (09:00 - 12:30)
Start at the Sasso Barisano viewpoint for incredible panoramic photos. Walk toward the majestic Matera Cathedral (Duomo). Next, visit the impressive Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario to understand the past and original community life of the ancient village.
Typical Lunch with Traditional Flavor (13:00 - 14:30)
Choose a local osteria and delight in an authentic portion of Orecchiette alla Materana paired with a glass of full-bodied Aglianico del Vulture wine.
Underground Afternoon & Fantastic Sunset (15:00 - 18:30)
Head down to explore the fascinating hydraulic engineering of Palombaro Lungo. Finish the day crossing the ravine to watch an unforgettable sunset at Murgia Materana Park as the cave lights twinkle on like a living nativity scene.
2-Day Itinerary: Archaeological Immersion and Rupestrian Churches
Add depth to your trip by splitting your journey to fully experience Basilicata's spectacular soul:
Day 1: Labyrinth of Stories and Tradition
Dedicate your entire first day to getting lost between Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso, visiting cave museums and tasting crunchy Peperoni Cruschi snacks.
Day 2: Rupestrian Churches and Flavors Journey
Hire a certified local guide in the morning to explore over 150 rupestrian churches with preserved Byzantine frescoes in Murgia Park. In the afternoon, book a sophisticated cave table at Vitantonio Lombardo or take the classic gastronomic day trip to Altamura to experience Italy's most traditional bread.
Matera: The Starting Point for Basilicata and Puglia
Matera serves as an excellent starting point for exploring the Basilicata region and neighboring Puglia.
Nearby Places You Must Visit
- Altamura: The city of Italy's oldest bread, about a 20-minute drive away.
- Alberobello: The city of trulli, cone-roofed stone houses in Puglia, about a 1-hour drive away.
- Bari: Puglia's capital, with a charming historic center and busy port, about a 1-hour drive away.
My Friend's Tip: Rent a car and explore the region. Basilicata and Puglia are rich in history, gastronomy, and incredible landscapes.
Arrivederci, Matera!
We've reached the end of our tour through Matera. I hope you felt the depth of its history, the beauty of its resilience, and the flavor of its bread. Matera is more than a city; it's a life lesson, a testament to human adaptability and reinvention.
Go, explore the Sassi, feel the stone beneath your feet, and let history touch you. And when you return, tell me which cave moved you the most.
Your adventure in Basilicata awaits you. Salute!